Paris 2015

It is #mondayblues and I think I am not 100% here, I am still mentally in Paris, walking its streets and enjoying its food ;)

11363639_1653677664845617_1071922514_n

Paris is beautiful, even though French themselves call this city grey and rainy (I think they might be confusing it with London). Reason we went was to celebrate Ben’s mother’s birthday (hello Vinny and Sarah!)

11363840_454163924757271_805517393_n

We secretly started preparing this trip as a surprise 6 months ago: booked Eurostar, airbnb apartment and Moulin Rouge tickets. I cannot remember exactly whose idea it was to go see Moulin Rouge but since we were staying in Montmartre it would be a sin not to see the classical cabaret show.

Vinny and Sarah have arrived to London on Thursday night and we went to bed quite late. Considering early rise at 3.30 (!) it was quite difficult to force ourselves out of beds. We had a taxi take us to St Pancras and all this time Vinny didn’t know where we were going. We had to say we were out on a day trip and that is why we were going to a train station. Only when we went through Eurostar terminal, it was clear we are off somewhere outside UK. And then we broke the news saying we were going to Paris :)

1

Eurostar trains being 10 years old are still the best way for us to get to continental Europe, it is only 2.5 hours to Paris. We had some small nibble on the train and got to Gare du Nord (North Station) at 9.20 local time.

We had quite a bit of time until our check in airbnb so we left the bags at the luggage facilities and went exploring. To find luggage storage, get off Eurostar train, walk forward and on the right you will see escalators leading you down with the yellow sign saying Consignes. We rented a big locker for 9.5 eur, it was ours for 48 hours but we only needed it for half a day.

After that we went to l’Ile de la Cite to have breakfast and say hello to Notre Dame de Paris. Lonely Planet is an essential guide for travelling and gives the best tips on where to eat and what to do. It recommended Le Saint Regis for food and we got there on time for typical Parisian breakfast (bread and more bread lol).

Notre Dame and this cafe are situated on the small islands that were not inhabited until connected to the city by bridges.

iles

And then we went to see Notre Dame, Conciergerie and Sainte Chapelle – beautiful!!!

11429737_849420728472826_2025168366_n 1538354_1858849147672615_1778394568_n

Conciergerie is the oldest largest medieval hall preserved in Europe. It used to be a royal palace, a prison and is a museum now which tells us the stories of famous prisoners who were kept there during French Revolution. I particularly liked Camille Desmoulins portrait:

11242623_722301831225234_1110859062_n

Camille was a journalist and politician who played an important role in the French Revolution. He was a childhood friend of Maximilien Robespierre and a close friend and political ally of Georges Danton and Jean-Paul Marat, who were influential figures in the French Revolution. Desmoulins was tried and executed at the age of 34 alongside Danton in response to Dantonist opposition to the Committee of Public Safety.

The trial was less criminal in nature than political, and as such unfolded in an irregular fashion. The accused were prevented from defending themselves by a decree of the National Convention. This fact, together with confusing and often incidental denunciations (for instance, a report that Danton, while engaged in political work in Brussels, had appropriated a carriage filled with several hundred thousand pounds of table linen)[13] and threats made by prosecutor Antoine Quentin Fouquier-Tinville towards members of the jury, helped to ensure a guilty verdict. Additionally, the accused were denied the right to have witnesses appear on their behalf, though they had submitted requests for several – including, in Desmoulins’ case, Robespierre. The verdict was passed in the absence of the accused, who had been removed from the courtroom to prevent unrest among the trial’s observers. Their execution was scheduled for the same day.

In a letter to his wife from the Luxembourg Prison, Desmoulins wrote,

[I]t is marvellous that I have walked for five years along the precipices of the Revolution without falling over them, and that I am still living; and I rest my head calmly upon the pillow of my writings… I have dreamed of a Republic such as all the world would have adored. I could never have believed that men could be so ferocious and so unjust.[14]

As Desmoulins was taken to the guillotine, he was informed of his wife’s arrest and went mad. It took several men to get him to the tumbril. He struggled and tried to plead with the mob, ripping his shirt in the process. Lucile was also soon to be slated for execution and died only eight days later.

Another famous prisoner of Conciergerie was Marie Antoinette (this is a great film about her young years as the Queen starring Kirsten Dunst)

The queen was moved to an isolated underground cell in the Conciergerie as ‘Prisoner No. 280’. This period of time was the most difficult period of her captivity. She was always attended by guards who restrained her, did not allow her any privacy and treated her very badly; an attempt to escape was foiled due to the inability to corrupt all the guards, to fear, and also to the large numbers of iron doors which totally cut the underground cell where Marie Antoinette was isolated from the rest of the prison.

She was tried by the Revolutionary Tribunal on 14 October. She was given less than one day to prepare her defence. Among the accusations, many previously published in the libelles, were orchestrating orgies in Versailles, sending millions of livres of treasury money to Austria, plotting to kill the Duke of Orléans, orchestrating the massacre of the Swiss Guards in 1792, declaring her son to be the new king of France, and—by her son Louis Charles himself (pushed by radical elements who controlled him)—of having sexually abused him. This last accusation drew an emotional response from Marie Antoinette, who refused to respond to this charge and, instead, calling on all mothers present in the room: their reaction brought her comfort since the women in the audience were not sympathetic to her.
Early on 16 October she was declared guilty of treason and condemned to death, while she had expected life imprisonment. In the few hours left to her, she composed a letter to her sister-in-law Madame Élisabeth, affirming her clear conscience, her Catholic faith and her feelings for her children. The letter did not reach Élisabeth. She was then forced to undress in front of her guards watching over her, and put on a plain white dress. Her hair was shorn, her hands bound painfully behind her back and she was leashed with a rope. She was then driven in an open cart from the Conciergerie, via the rue Saint-Honoré thoroughfare, to the guillotine erected Place de la Révolution, under the jeering of the crowds, some calling her Autrichienne (Autrichienne referring to her Austrian ethnicity, while chienne in French is a female dog: bitch), while some remained silent. All the while, she maintained her composure. For her final confession she was given a priest, (prêtre assermenté), recognized not by Rome but by the French Republic constitutional church, with the result that Marie Antoinette refused to confess or talk to him although he was with her the whole time until her execution. In this and other matters related to her confinement and to the manner in which she was taken to her execution, she was treated more harshly than Louis XVI had been.

Marie Antoinette on her way to the guillotine. Pen and ink by Jacques-Louis David, 16 October 1793. (Département des Estampes, Bibliothèque nationale de France)

Marie Antoinette’s execution on 16 October 1793: Sanson, the executioner, showing Marie Antoinette’s head to the people. (Anonymous, 1793. Musée Carnavalet, Paris)

She was guillotined at 12:15 p.m. on 16 October 1793, at the Place de la Révolution (present-day Place de la Concorde).

11324251_1669813789916949_2102506542_n

Her last words were “Pardon me, sir, I meant not to do it”, to Henri Sanson the executioner, whose foot she had accidentally stepped on after climbing the scaffold. Her body was thrown into an unmarked grave in the Madeleine cemetery, (which was closed the following year).

We continued to Sainte Chapelle and luckily the day was sunny so we enjoyed the beauty of the chapel’s stained glass. The floor at St Chapelle:

11385614_999249310109763_685490404_n

This chapel is so so pretty! It was built in 13th century, nearly 2/3 of all windows are authentic from that time :)

10661063_1495680144057153_1480224452_n 11357464_596071633865924_959129790_n 11380187_1471999216448264_1899308629_n

After that we went to Montmartre where we rented an apartment for 2 nights.

10731994_712573672181327_2015599137_n 11202444_871561356255883_130653935_n 11251300_1029133180460361_69029789_n

18th arrondissement (Paris is broken down into areas which are called arrondissements) is known for Sacre Coeur basilica and the hill of Montmartre. It has also given the world plenty of artists, writers and in the last decade one of my favourite musicians – Zaz.

iles

11251874_1619138545034944_82835928_n  11335117_495704180595405_537271796_n

One of the best things about Paris is morning rituals of getting fresh baguette and pastries from boulangeries (bakeries) and having a feast:

11264514_1626413154281804_810346271_n

We walked up and down the hills and were treated to a nice old film “Funny Face” starring audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire. In the introduction speech the festival organiser explained that they show films that depict Paris :)

11356018_1187961744563105_625857308_n 11385634_1618156095123447_1326233458_n 11821097_143178716016599_360417784_n11430218_1642298265988426_1846356781_n

We also saw the Wall of Love

11426167_766513906791557_797453471_n

Montmartre was also made famous by the film “Le fabuleux destin d’Amelie Poulin” which is shortly knows as “Amelie“, one of my favourite films.  It is a beautiful story of finding self and helping others that made Audrey Tautou known to international audience. The cafe where film took place, is still there and is called “Cafe des 2 Moulins” (moulin means a windmill).

I cannot forget the most delicious pastries and baguettes which you can get anywhere in Paris and especially at Coquelicot and Grenier a Pain which have won awards for the best baguette and the best croissant (mmm, I crave those croissants right now):

We had dinner at Chez Toinnette which served the best lamb shanks and duck we have ever eaten in a restaurant. Despite us having wine wine, the bill was surprisingly small so we unanimously agreed that was the place to eat.

11313470_1662489520653197_1984840771_n

The first day was quite intense, we had only 3 hours of sleep and walked the whole day so when it was time to go to bed, we were all happy to relax and have a lie in the next morning.

Saturday was full of sightseeing and walking as well as eating and drinking :) We started with L’Arc de Triomphe. It should not be confused with a smaller arch, theArc de Triomphe du Carrousel, which stands west of the Louvre. The Arc de Triomphe honours those who fought and died for France in the French Revolutionary and the Napoleonic Wars, with the names of all French victories and generals inscribed on its inner and outer surfaces. Beneath its vault lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I. It was commissioned in 1806 after the victory at Austerlitz by Emperor Napoleon at the peak of his fortunes. Laying the foundations alone took two years and, in 1810, when Napoleon entered Paris from the west with his bride Archduchess Marie-Louise of Austria, he had a wooden mock-up of the completed arch constructed. On 15 December 1840, brought back to France from Saint Helena, Napoleon’s remains passed under it on their way to the Emperor’s final resting place at the Invalides. Prior to burial in the Panthéon, the body of Victor Hugo was exposed under the Arc during the night of 22 May 1885. On 7 August 1919, Charles Godefroy successfully flew his biplane under the Arc.

In the prolongation of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, a new arch, the Grande Arche de la Défense, was built in 1982, completing the line of monuments that forms Paris’s Axe historique. After the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and the Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile, the Grande Arche is the third arch built on the same perspective. In 1995, the Armed Islamic Group of Algeria placed a bomb near the Arc de Triomphe which wounded 17 people as part of a campaign of bombings.

11355717_1455326071458769_1586772427_n

The best memory of the day was seeing the Eiffel Tower from Bir-Hakim metro station when the train gets out of the tunnel and you see the metal laces of La Tour.

11324513_611835232253071_1859485642_n 11363639_1653677664845617_1071922514_n

Erected in 1889 as the entrance arch to the 1889 World’s Fair, it was initially criticized by some of France’s leading artists and intellectuals for its design, but has become both a global cultural icon of France and one of the most recognisable structures in the world.

The projected tower had been a subject of some controversy, attracting criticism from both those who did not believe that it was feasible and those who objected on artistic grounds, whose objections were an expression of a longstanding debate about the relationship between architecture and engineering. This came to a head as work began at the Champ de Mars: A “Committee of Three Hundred” (one member for each metre of the tower’s height) was formed, led by the prominent architect Charles Garnier and including some of the most important figures of the French arts establishment, including Adolphe Bouguereau, Guy de Maupassant, Charles Gounod andJules Massenet: a petition was sent to Charles Alphand, the Minister of Works and Commissioner for the Exposition, and was published by Le Temps on 14 February 1887.[6]

We, writers, painters, sculptors, architects and passionate devotees of the hitherto untouched beauty of Paris, protest with all our strength, with all our indignation in the name of slighted French taste, against the erection … of this useless and monstrous Eiffel Tower … To bring our arguments home, imagine for a moment a giddy, ridiculous tower dominating Paris like a gigantic black smokestack, crushing under its barbaric bulk Notre Dame, the Tour Saint-Jacques, the Louvre, the Dome of les Invalides, the Arc de Triomphe, all of our humiliated monuments will disappear in this ghastly dream. And for twenty years … we shall see stretching like a blot of ink the hateful shadow of the hateful column of bolted sheet metal.

Gustave Eiffel responded to these criticisms by comparing his tower to the Egyptian pyramids: “My tower will be the tallest edifice ever erected by man. Will it not also be grandiose in its way? And why would something admirable in Egypt become hideous and ridiculous in Paris?” Some of the protesters were to change their minds when the tower was built; others remained unconvinced. Guy de Maupassant supposedly ate lunch in the tower’s restaurant every day because it was the one place in Paris where the tower was not visible.

By 1918 it had become a symbol for Paris and for France, when Guillaume Apollinaire made a nationalist poem in the shape of the tower (a calligram) to express his feelings about the war against Germany. It is widely considered now to be a striking piece of structural art, and is often featured in films and literature.

Then we walked to Pont de L’Alma where people bring flowers to commemorate princess Diana and walked along av. Montaigne with its expensive boutiques and gorgeous hotels.

11258357_1664325160479421_254215648_n

As I have mentioned previously in my other post about France, French restaurants opening times are very peculiar. There is a siesta from 2 till 7pm and the only place to eat are brasseries and we enjoyed that :)

11325303_1625440351067617_630147521_n 11419268_801623266617988_969223253_n

We got to Champs Elysees and walked to the Louvre past les Jardins des Tuileries

11325677_1595493557385020_143463473_n 11326286_952908588084322_2081380343_n 11326346_869181913166029_1034418850_n  11355791_806978272756840_1429467662_n 11371270_151869091811203_1023680562_n 11374202_1456501897985136_753804188_n 11378952_858518597575680_1768933220_n 11379819_884170771663584_959690688_n

We did not go inside Louvre because it would have taken us at least half a day to explore it so we decided to leave it till the next time. Nearly 35,000 objects from prehistory to the 21st century are exhibited over an area of 60,600 square metres (652,300 square feet). The Louvre is the world’s most visited museum. The museum is housed in the Louvre Palace, originally built as a fortress in the late 12th century under Philip II. Remnants of the fortress are visible in the basement of the museum. The building was extended many times to form the present Louvre Palace. In 1682, Louis XIV chose the Palace of Versailles for his household, leaving the Louvre primarily as a place to display the royal collection, including, from 1692, a collection of ancient Greek and Roman sculpture. In 1692, the building was occupied by the Académie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres and the Académie Royale de Peinture et de Sculpture, which in 1699 held the first of a series of salons. The Académie remained at the Louvre for 100 years. During the French Revolution, the National Assembly decreed that the Louvre should be used as a museum to display the nation’s masterpieces.

Instead we went into Musee de l’Orangerie to see Waterlillies by Monet and some other works by Picasso, Modigliani and others.

11410500_537635283057491_2111472501_n

After that we went home to chill for a bit and went out for dinner to Creperie Pen-Ty founded in 1976 and serving traditional food of Brittany – sweet crepes and savoury galettes :p

We tricked Vinny into walking past Moulin Rouge and she did not know we have already booked tickets – it was a big surprise! =)

11247134_854722407937965_651898778_n

The next day we walked to Sacre Coeur, admired the view and then headed to Gare du Nord to go back to London. From the dawn of time Montmartre has been a place of worship : from the Druids of ancient Gaul, through the Romans with their temples dedicated to Mars and Mercury, to the Church of Saint Peter, the oldest in Paris, rebuilt in the 12th century next to the Royal Abbey of Montmartre by Louis VI and his wife Adélaïde de Savoie… Finally, the Basilica of the Sacré-Cœur, erected at the end of the 19th century.

It is a massive basilica and the most impressive thing about it were the mosaics (mozeaks lol!) and the Dome:

Panoramic view from Sacre Coeur

Going back to London was a bit sad because none of us wanted to leave Paris but it was great to know that there is such a wonderful place that we have enjoyed a lot and where we will definitely come back again!

Thank you Vinny, Sarah and Ben for being great travel companions and having so many laughs together :)

xxx